Huevos con Queso

 

                Whoever Benedict of egg fame was, he or she wasn't from the Lone Star State. Texans would never choose a wimpy hollandaise topping for eggs when they could have a hard-hitting chile-cheese sauce.

Serves 4

• Unsalted butter
• 8 thin slices Canadian bacon (Smoked eye of pork loin)
• 8 eggs
• 4 Mexican bolillos (small yeast rolls) or English muffins
• 1 to 1½ cups warm Chile con Queso, (click here for the recipe)
• Chopped tomato and sliced green onion tops, for garnish, optional

1. Warm enough butter in a skillet to form a thin film when melted.
2. Fry the bacon until it is lightly crispy, and drain it ; the eggs can be fried in the meat drippings and butter or poached.
3. Split and toast the bread, and butter the halves ; transfer 2 halves to each person's plate ; place a bacon slice on each piece of bread, and top with the eggs and equal portions of Chile con Queso.
4. Serve the dish hot, garnished with the tomato and onion, if you wish.

BON APPÉTIT

Fried Cauliflower "n" Queso

 

                "Cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education." Mark Twain claimed. If so, this dish has a Ph.D in Texas state.

Serves 6 

• 1 large cauliflower, break into flowerettes
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1½ cups buttermilk
• 1 egg
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• 1 recipe Chile con Queso, click here for the recipe

1. In a large saucepan, cover the cauliflowerettes with salted water, and bring it to a boil ; cook until the cauliflower is tender but not mushy.
2. Drain the cauliflower and reserve it.
3. Place the flour in a shallow bowl ; in a second dish, stir together the baking powder and soda, pepper, and salt, and mix in the milk and egg, Tabasco and garlic (the mixture will be thin).
4. Dredge each flowerette first in the flower and then in the batter ; dunk the flowerettes back into the flour.
5. Add enough oil to a heavy, deep skillet to deep-fry the flowerettes in at least 4 inches of oil ; heat oil to 350F (180C).
6. Fry the cauliflower in batches for 3 to 4 minutes, until it is golden brown ; Drain the cauliflower, top it with Chile con Queso, and serve it hot.

BON APPÉTIT

Chile con Queso

 

                This delightful dip and sauce suffered the indignity of being homogenized into a glop that's poured on ballpark nachos. A real chile con queso, studded with tomato and green chile, bears little resemblance to the pretender.

Makes about 2 cups

• 1 tablespoon corn oil
• ½ medium onion, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 medium tomato, chopped
• ½ cup chopped roasted green chile, preferably New Mexican or poblanuo, fresh or frozen
• One-third cup unsalted chicken stock
• 2 cups grated mild cheddar cheese

1. Warm the oil in small, heavy saucepan over medium heat.
2. Sauté the onion and garlic until soft ; add the tomato, green chile, and stock, and bring the mixture to a simmer.
3. Sprinkle in the cheese, and stir until it melts.
4. Serve the sauce immediately, or keep it warm in a water bath or chafing dish for up to an hour.
5. Eat Chile con Queso with tostada chips or in other dishes such as Fried Cauliflower "n" Queso, click here for the recipe.

BON APPÉTIT

Fried Green Tomatoes

 

                Just before fall's freeze, every tomato plant in the world seems to burst forth with fruit that doesn't stand a chance of getting ripe and juicy. Frying saved the hard green tomatoes, and when you add another reputed aphrodisiac, cumin, you're really ready for winter.

Serves 4

• 4 medium green tomatoes
• ½ cup flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted an grond
• ¼ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• 2 pinches of sugar
• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoon milk
• ½ cup medium-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-grind
• Canola oil, for pan frying

1. Slice the tomatoes ¼ inch thick.
2. In a small bowl, combine the flour with the salt, cumin, pepper, and sugar.
3. In another small bowl, beat the egg and the milk ; place the cornmeal in a third small bowl.
4. Dredge each tomato slice in the seasoned flour, then dip it briefly in the milk mixture ; finally, dip it in the cornmeal.
5. In a large, heavy skillet, heat a thick film of oil ; add the tomatoes, and fry them over medium heat, turning them once.
6. Cook the tomatoes 2 to 3 minutes per side, until they are golden brown and crispy.
7. Serve them hot.

BON APPÉTIT

Minted Beets

 

                Minus a half-cup of butter, this recipe comes from a 1950 cookbook, Favorite Dallas County Recipes, compiled by he Dallas County Home Demonstration Clubs.

Serves 4 to 6

• 6 to 7 medium beets (to yield about 3 cups when cooked and sliced), trimmed
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 tablespoons peach, apricot, or jalapeno jelly
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 2 to 2½ tablespoons minced fresh mint

1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
2. Place the beets in a covered dish, and bake them approximately 1 hour ; the beets are done when they can be pierced easily with a knife or skewer.
3. Allow the beets to cool until they can be easily handled ; peel the beets, and slice them.
4. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan, and add the beets and cloves ; over medium heat, warm the beets, stirring occasionally.
5. After a couple of minutes, add the jelly and lemon juice, stirring to combine ; remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the mint.
6. Serve the beets hot or at room temperature.

BON APPÉTIT

Chili Onion Rings

 

Serves 4

• 3 large onions, preferably sweet such as vidalia
• 3 to 4 cups buttermilk
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 teaspoons chili powder
• 1 teaspoon ground dried red chile
• 1 teaspoon sugar, if you are not using sweet onions
• Peanut oil, for deep frying

1. Cut the onions into ¼-inch slices ; in a nonreactive dish, soak the onions in the buttermilk for 30 to 60 minutes.
2. In a brown-paper sack, combine the flour, salt, chili powder, chile, and, if needed, sugar ; drain the onions, and dredge them into the seasoned flour.
3. Pour at least 4 inches of oil into a heavy saucepan at least twice that deep ; heat the oil to 350F (180C), use only fresh, unused oil.
4. Fry the onions, in batches, about 2 to 3 minutes, or until they are golden.
5. For the crispiest results, rain the onion on paper towels and spread them on a serving platter.
6. Don't pile them into a basket, where they are likely to get soggy.
7. Serve the onions immediately.

BON APPÉTIT

Ham-Stuffed Yams

 

                If you like bacon in a baked potato, you'll love ham in a yam.

Serves 4

• 2 medium sweet potatoes
• Oil, canola or corn
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons sour cream
• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons brown mustard
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon dark brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon paprika, plus more for garnish
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ to ¾ cup warm milk
• ¾ cup minced ham, well smoked

1. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).
2. Scrub the potatoes well, prick them in several spots, and coat them with a light film of oil.
3. Place them on a baking sheet, and bake them until they are very soft, 1¼ hours or more, depending on the size of the potatoes ; reduce the heat to 350F (180C).
4. Remove the potatoes from the oven, and let them cool a few minutes ; slice each one in half horizontally.
5. Scoop out the potato from each skin, being carefull not to scrape through the skin ; reserve the potato shells.
6. Mash the potatoes well with a potato masher ; put the mashed potatoes in a medium bowl, and vigorously mix in the butter and sour cream.
7. Add the mustard, brown sugar, paprika, thyme, and salt ; mix in the milk, about ¼ cup at a time, adding as much as the potatoes can absorb to become light and not soupy.
8. Fold in the minced ham.
9. Spoon the potato filling back into the shells, mounding it up in the center ; the potatoes can be prepared to this point a few hours ahead and refrigerated.
10. Transfer the potatoes to a small baking dish ; sprinkle each potato liberally with paprika.
11. Bake the potatoes 15 minutes, or until they are heated through ; allow an extra 5 to 10 minutes if your potatoes were refrigerated.
12. Serve the potatoes hot.

BON APPÉTIT

Jalapeno Potatoes

 

                This is what to cook when you have an urge for scalloped potatoes.

Serves 6 to 8 

• 3 pounds baking potatoes, peeled or unpeeled
• 1½ tablespoons salt
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 4 tablespoons corn oil or additional unsalted butter
• 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
• 8 to 10 green onions, sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 4 ounces pimientos, diced
• One-third cup pickled jalapenos, sliced, plus 1 tablespoon jalapeno pickling liquid
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups evaporated milk
• 2 cups grated mild or medium cheddar cheese

1. Place the potatoes in a large heavy pan, and cover them with water by at least 1 inch ; add the salt.
2. Cook the potatoes over moderate heat until they are tender, about 25 to 35 minutes depending upon the size of the potatoes ; drain the potatoes, and, when they are cool enough to handle, slice them very thin.
3. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C) ; grease a large baking dish.
4. Warm the butter and oil in a saucepan over medium heat ; when the butter has melted, add the bell pepper, onions, and garlic, and sauté them until they are softened.
5. Stir in pimientos, the jalapenos, and the jalapeno liquid ; sprinkle the flour over the vegetables, and mix it in.
6. Pour the milk gradually, stirring to avoid lumps ; simmer briefly until the mixture is thickened.
7. Remove the pan from the heat, add the grated cheese, and mix well.
8. Alternate layers of potatoes and sauce in the baking dish, ending with some of the sauce ; cover the dish thightly, and bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until the potatoes are very soft and much of the saucehas been absorbed.
9. Serve the potatoes hot.
10. The potatoes can be assembled a day ahead and refriferated ; bring the dish back to room temperature before baking.

BON APPÉTIT

Stuffed Potatoes

 

                Stuffed or twice-baked potatoes rank just behind mashed and fried spuds as Texas favorites. Frequently they are flavored with sour cream, cheddar cheese, and maybe bacon or green onion. Although the dish is not for dieters.

Serves 6

• 6 small or 3 large baking potatoes
• Oil, corn or canola
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 slices slab bacon, chopped
• ½ cup sliced green onions
• ¼ to ½ cup milk
• ½ cup sour cream
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon minced chives
• ¾ to 1 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon white pepper
• Pinch of nutmeg
• 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
• Paprika

1. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).
2. Rub the potatoes well with the oil, and prick them with a fork so steam can escape.
3. Bake the potatoes for 1 hour, or until they are soft when pierced through ; remove the potatoes, but leave the oven on.
4. In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium heat ; add the bacon, and fry until it is browned and crisp.
5. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon, drain it, and set it aside ; add the green onions to the butter, and sauté them over low heat until they softened.
6. Cut the warm potatoes in half lengthwise ; scoop out the insides, and reserve the potato "shells".
7. Rice the potatoes or bet them in a medium bowl until they are fluffy, adding ¼ cup of the milk and mixing well ; stir in the sour cream, egg yolks, chives, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
8. Add the remaining milk if the mixture seems dry.
9. Spoon the potato mixture back into the shells, mounding it attractively ; the potatoes can be made ahead to this point, if they are covered and refrigerated, but plan to allow a few extra minutes of baking to compensate for the cold stuffing.
10. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the potatoes, and add a healthy dash of paprika on top ; transfer the potatoes to a baking dish, and bake them for 20 minutes, until they are heated through and lightly browned.

BON APPÉTIT

Poppyseed Cheese Bread

 

Makes 1 9-by-5-inch loaf

• ¾ cup unsalted butter
• ¼ cup sugar
• 5 eggs
• ½ cup milk
• 2 fresh jalapinos, minced
• 2 tablespoons poppyseeds
• 1 cup grated mild cheddar cheese
• 3 ounces cream cheese
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup medium-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
• 2½ teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C) ; grease a 9-by5-inch loaf pan.
2. Cream together the butter and sugar with an electric mixer or food processor.
3. Add the eggs, and blend them in ; add the milk, jalapenos, poppyseeds, and cheese, mixing well after each addition.
4. Sift together the remaining ingredients, and add the dry mixture to the batter, about one-third at a time, mixing well after each addition.
5. Spoon the batter into the pan ; bake the bread about 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
6. Served the bread warm or at room temperature.

BON APPÉTIT

Miss Sterett's Shrimp Salad

 

                This is an updated version of a pioneering dish Willie Mae Sterett served in the 1950's at the S & S Tea Room, then the leading spot for ladies luncheons in Dallas.

                The shrimp salad is deceptively simple. For best results, get top-quality shrimp and cook them only briefly but with a lot of seasoning.

Serves 4 

Shrimp

• 4 cups unsalted seafood stock
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• Tops of 3 to 4 celery ribs
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 bay leaves
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• 1½ pounds medium shrimp, unshelled

Salad

• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 3 to 4 celery ribs, chopped fine
• ½ teaspoon prepared Dijon mustard
• ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
• Lettuce leaves, for garnish

1. In a large saucepan, combine the stock with the onion, celery, and seasonings ; bring the liquid to a boil, and boil for 10 to 15 minutes, reducing the liquid slightly.
2. Add the shrimp, immediately reduce the heat to simmer, and cook the shrimp 2 to 4 minutes, until the shells have turned pink and the shrimp are firm ; drain the liquid from the shrimp, and put them in the freezer for about 10 minutes, until they are cool.
3. When the shrimp are cool, peel and devein them, and slice each in half lengthwise ; place the shrimp in a bowl and gently mix the remaining ingredients, except the lettuce leaves.
4. Chill the salad, covered, for 30 minutes or longer before serving.
5. Mound the salad on the lettuce leaves.

BON APPÉTIT

Shelby County Egg Salad

 

                Egg salads have been a winner on Texas tables for well over a century.

Makes about 2 cups

• 6 hard-boiled eggs, grated fine or sieved
• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons minced pimento-stuffed olives
• ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 
• 2 tablespoons minced green onions
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1 tablespoon prepared Dijon mustard
• Salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste
• Lettuce leaves, optional, for garnish

1. Combine all the ingredients together in a medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.
2. Refrigerate the salad, covered, at least 30 minutes.
3. Serve the salad atop lettuce leaves or spread it in a sandwich.
4. Leftovers can be kept a couple of days.

BON APPÉTIT

Texas Three-Bean Salad

 

                This variation on a common dish takes advantage of a German-style sweet-sour dressing that is similar to some dressings used in potato salads. When you're in a hurry, substitute canned kidney and garbanzo beans, but stick with fresh green beans.

Serves 6 to 8

• 2 cups cooked kidney beans
• 2 cups cooked garbanzo beans
• 2 cups cooked green beans or yellow wax beans, or a combination of the two
• 2 tablespoons oil, canola or corn
• 2 slices slab bacon, chopped
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• ¾ cup unsalted chicken stock
• ¼ cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons prepared yellow mustard
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• ½ medium green bell pepper, chopped
• ¼ cup minced parsley
• Salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste

1. Combine the beans in a large bowl.
2. Warm the oil in a saucepan over medium heat ; add the bacon and fry it until it is brown and crisp ; with a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pan, drain it, and reserve it.
3. To the bacon drippings and oil, add the onion and garlic, and cook them over medium heat until they are softened ; mix the flour.
4. Pour in the vinegar and stock, stirring, and add the sugar, mustard, and paprika ; simmer the dressing for about 10 minutes, adding the celery and bell pepper in the last couple of minutes ; they should be softened slightly, but retain some crunch.
5. Remove the saucepan from the heat, and stir in the parsley ; taste, and add salt and pepper as you wish.
6. Stir the dressing into the beans.
7. Chill the salad, covered, for at least 2 hours ; stir the reserved bacon before serving.
8. The salad keeps for several days.

BON APPÉTIT 

Crunchy Carrot-Raisin Salad

 

                This salad is a lively twist on the usual creamy combinations of carrots and raisins.

Serve 4 to 6

• 4 carrots, sliced into thin rounds
• ¾ cup raisins
• ½ medium green bell pepper, diced fine
• 2 tablespoons minced onion
• 6 tablespoons peanut oil
• 2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt plus more to taste

1. In a medium bowl, combine the carrots, raisins, bell pepper, and onion.
2. In a lidded jar, mix together the oil, vinegar, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt.
3. Pour the dressing over the carrot mixture and toss well to coat ; refrigerate the salad at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
4. Taste the salad, and add salt if you like ; the salad keeps well for several days.

BON APPÉTIT

Batter-Diped Fried Fish

 

                Along with barbecues and crawfish boils, fish fries are a popular way for your parties. The first batter makes a light crunchy coating, rather like tempura. The second batter is thicker and flakier. Both work well with any white fish.

Serves 4 to 6 

Light batter

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 12 ounces beer
• 2 teaspoons prepared yellow mustard

Flaky batter

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• Pinch of nutmeg
• 8 ounces beer
• 1 egg, lightly beaten

And

• 2 pounds mild-flavored fish fillets, cut in equal pieces of several ounces each
• Peanut oil for deep frying
• Pink Tartar Sauce, click here for the recipe
• Lemon wedges

1. For either batter, stir together the dry ingredients, and then mix in the liquid ingredients.
2. Have the fish ready to dip into the batter before you heat the oil.
3. Fill a large, heavy pan with at least 4 inches of oil ; don't fill the pan more than half full.
4. Heat the oil to 350F (180C) ; always start with fresh oil.
5. Dip the fish in the batter a few pieces at a time, taking care to avoid overcrowding the pieces ; fry the fish until it is golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes, and drain it.
6. Repeat the process until all the fish is fried.
7. Serve the fish with the Pink Tartar Sauce and plenty of lemon wedges.

BON APPÉTIT

Fried Catfish

 

                This is the classic style of preparation, spiced up a bit, for Texas's favorite freshwater fish. In Texas, catfish almost always appears whole or in fillets averaging about ½ pound each. Cut your fillets into smaller pieces if you prefer.

Serves 4 to 6

• 2 pounds catfish fillets
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 2 to 3 teaspoons Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1½ cups medium-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
• ½ cup extra-fine-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-ground, or all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• Cayenne to taste
• Peanut oil for pan frying
• Lemon wedges, Pink Tartar Sauce (click here for the recipe), for garnish

1. In a shallow nonreactive dish, soak the catfish fillets in the buttermilk, Tabasco, and garlic ; refrigerate the fillets for at least 1 hour and up to several hours.
2. Combine the cornmeals, paprika, salt, pepper, and Cayenne, and spread the mixture on a plate or in a shallow bowl.
3. Pour enough oil into a cast-iron skillet to reach halfway up your fillets ; heat the oil to 350F (180C)(Always start with fresh oil).
4. While the oil is heating, drain the fillets, and lay them in the cornmeal mixture one at a time, coating both sides well.
5. Gently place a few pieces of fish in the skillet, frying them in batches, if necessary ; fry the fillets a total of about 5 minutes per half-inch of thickness, turning them once.
6. Adjust the heat as necessary to get a deep golden brown crust and a flaky interior.
7. Drain the fillets and transfer the fish to a warm plate ; serve immediately, with lemon wedges, and Pink Tartar Sauce.

BON APPÉTIT

Pink Tartar Sauce

 

                The traditional accompaniment to all fried fish, tartar sauce benefits from a touch of tomato.

Makes about 1¼ cups

• ¾ cup mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon capers
• 1 tablespoon prepared creole mustard
• 1 tablespoon ketchup 
• Juice of ½ lemon
• Salt and Cayenne to taste

1. In a small bowl, combine all ingredients.
2. Refrigerate the sauce at least 30 minutes.
3. It keeps for several days.

                Fried catfish and pink tartar sauce make a super sandwich. Before frying the fish, fry two slices of bacon for each diner, and prepare the tartar sauce. Have some good soft rolls, tomato slices, and lettuce on hand. Combine the fried fish on the rolls with the bacon, tomato, lettuce, and a generous dollop of the tartar sauce.

BON APPÉTIT

Texiana Shrimp and Rice

 

                This Texas variation on a Cajun jambalaya blends Louisiana and Southwestern flavors.

Serves 6

• 1½ pounds large shrimp
• 3 tablespoons oil, canola or corn
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 galic cloves, minced
• 1 large green bell pepper,chopped
• ¼ cup chopped roasted green chile, poblano or New Mexican
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• 1 teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
• 1 teaspoon white pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 bay leaf
• 1½ cups uncooked rice
• 3 cups shrimp or seafood stock
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 6 green onions, sliced
• ¼ cup chopped cilantro

1. Peel and devein the shrimp ; save the shells for stock.
2. Refrigerate the shrimp until you are ready to use them.
3. Warm the oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat ; add the onions, garlic, green bell pepper, and green chile, and sauté stirring occasionally, until the onions have softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the dried seasonings and the rice, stirring to coat all the grains, and cook another couple minutes ; add the stock and the lemon juice, and bring the liquid to a boil.
5. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer 18 minutes ; check the mixture toward the end of cooking time, and stir if the rice appears to be sticking.
6. Add the shrimp and the sliced green onions, stirring to incorporate them ; cook 2 to 3 minutes more.
7. Remove the skillet from the heat, and let the shrimp and rice sit, covered, for 10 minutes ; then sprinkle the cilantro over the dish, and serve it immediately.

BON APPÉTIT

Bona Fide Fried Shrimp

 

                This is a double-dip version, using both cornmeal and flour for a wonderful, crunchy coating.

Serves 4 to 6 

• 2 pounds medium or large shrimp, peeled, deveined, with tails
• 1½ cups medium-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon fresh-ground black pepper
• 1½ teaspoons white pepper
• 1½ cups buttermilk
• 2 to 3 galic cloves, minced
• Several splashes of Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
• Oil for deep frying, canola or corn
• Seafood Cocktail Sauce, click here for recipe

1. Butterfly the shrimp, slicing down the curved lower side and pressing the shrimp open.
2. In one small paper sack, place the corn meal ; in another, the flour, paprika, and black and white pepper, shaking to combine everything.
3. Measure the buttermilk into a small bowl, and add the garlic and Tabasco to it.
4. Pour the oil in a heavy saucepan, filling the pan to a level of at least 4 inches, but no more than half full (to avoid the possibility of overflows during cooking) ; heat the oil to 350F (180C) (Use only fresh oil).
5. Plan to cook the shrimp in batches, coating only as many as will go into the pan at a time.
6. Drop the shrimp in the bag of seasoned flour, shaking well to coat them thoroughly ; then remove the shrimp, shaking off any excess flour, dip them in the buttermilk, and shake them in the bag of cornmeal.
7. Remove the shrimp, shaking off the excess cornmeal, and fry them 2 minutes, until they are golden brown ; drain them.
8. Repeat with the remaining shrimp.
9. Serve the shrimp immediately with the seafood cocktail sauce.

BON APPÉTIT

South Texas Venison Stew

 

                This flavorful stew makes a value-minded meat out of venison, which can be expensive meat. It's another good dish for a Crockpot.

Serves 4

• 1 pound venison stew meat, cut in ½-inch chunks
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• ½ teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
• 2 tablespoons oil, canola or corn
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 1 medium red bell pepper, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1½ cups unsalted game, beef, or chicken stock
• ½ cup dried apricots, diced
• One-third cup chili sauce
• 1 x 14½-ounce can hominy or 2 cups cooked pozole
• 2 cups cooked black beans (canned beans are acceptable if they are rinsed before using)
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1 tablespoon minced cilantro plus more, optional, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 325F (160C), unles you're using a Crockpot.
2. Toss the venison cubes lightly with a mixture of the salt, pepper, cumin, and oregano.
3. Warm the oil over medium-high heat, and brown the meat quickly ; with a slotted spoon, remove the venison from the oil, and place it in a Crockpot, Dutch oven, or other heavy pot.
4. Sauté the onion, bell pepper, and garlic in the oil remaining in the pan until they have softened ; spoon the vegetables into the pot with the venison.
5. Add the stock, apricots, and chili sauce, stir to combine, and cover the pot ; cook the stew in the Crockpot 10 to 12 hours or bake it 3 to 4 hours in the oven, until the venison is very tender.
6. During the last half-hour of cooking, mix the pozole and beans into the stew ; take the stew off the heat, and stir in the lime juice and the tablespoon cilantro.
7. Serve the stew hot, with more cilantro, if you like.

BON APPÉTIT

Chorizo-Rice Casserole

 

                This sausage casserole is something of a cross between a Tex-Mex picadillo and a Cajun jambalaya.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

• ½ pound Chipotle Chorizo (click here for the recipe) or good store-bought chorizo
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 small tomatoes, preferably Roma or another Italian plum variety, chopped
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 1 medium red-skinned potato, diced
• ½ medium green bell pepper, chopped
• ¾ cup uncooked rice
• ½ cup currants or raisins
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• 1¾ cups unsalted beef or chicken stock
• ½ cup chopped roasted, salted peanuts
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
2. In a large oven-proof skillet, preferably cast-iron, brown the chorizo over medium heat, breaking it into small pieces ; pour off the accumulated fat as necessary to leave no more than about 1 tablespoon.
3. Add the onion, garlic, tomatoes, celery, potato, and bell pepper to the chorizo, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are limp and somewhat tender.
4. Add the rice, currants or raisins, chili powder, and cumin, and cook another 5 minutes, stirring frequently ; pour in the stock, cover the dish, and bake the casserole for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender,
5. Remove the casserole from the oven and stir in the peanuts and cilantro.
6. Serve the casserole immediately.

BON APPÉTIT

Monday Night Ham Loaf

 

                Try this traditioanal loaf if you have leftovers from a Sunday ham, and consider making the dish even if it requires a special trip to the store. Like meat loaf, this pork cousin makes great sandwiches, hot or cold.

Serves 6 to 8

• 1 pound ground smoked ham
• 1 tablespoon oil, canola or corn
• 1 onion, chopped
• ¾ pound ground pork
• 1 cup saltine cracker crumbs
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup milk
• 1 tablespoon prepared yellow mustard
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
• Salt to taste

Glaze

• 2 tablespoons apple cider
• 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons prepared yellow mustard

1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
2. Warm the oil in a small skillet over medium heat ; add the chopped onion, and sauté it briefly until it is softened.
3. Combine the onion with all the other ingredients in a medium bowl, mixing well ; the mixture will be quite moist but shouldn't be soupy.
4. Place the meat in a loaf pan, and smooth its surface ; bake the ham loaf about 1 hour.
5. While the loaf bakes, combine the glaze ingredients in a bowl ; after the ham loaf has baked 45 to 50 minutes, brush it with the glaze, and continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes.
6. Remove the pan from the oven, and let it sit for at least 10 minutes before cutting the loaf.
7. Serve the ham loaf hot, at room temperature, or cold.

BON APPÉTIT

Turkey and Rarebit Sandwich

 

                A British dish, rarebit has been popular in Texas since the turn of the century at least.

Makes 2 sandwiches

Rarebit sauce

• ¾ cup half-and-half or beer
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 1½ cups grated sharp cheddar cheese
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• ½ teaspoon dry mustard
• ½ teaspoon paprika
• ½ teaspoon salt

The sandwich

• 4 slices sourdough white bread
• 4 slices tomato
• 10 to 12 ounces smoked turkey breast
• 4 slices slab bacon, cooked crisp

1. In the top of a double boiler, warm the half-and-half or beer with the butter ; add a tablespoon of the hot liquid to the egg yolk in a small bowl, and mix.
2. Stir the egg into the liquid ; add cheese, stirring until it has melted evenly.
3. Mix in the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, paprika, and salt ; when the sauce is hot through and bubbly, remove it from the heat.
4. Heat the broiler.
5. Toast the bread ; lay two slices on each of two ovenproof plates.
6. Arrange half of the tomato, turkey, and bacon over the bread on each plate ; spoon half of the rarebit sauce over each sandwich.
7. Pop the open-face sandwiches under the broiler momentarily, until the sauce is bubbly.
8. Serve the sandwiches piping hot ; you will want to eat them with knives and forks.

BON APPÉTIT

East Texas Fried Chicken with Classic Cream Gravy

 

                Soaking the chicken adds moisture to the meat. Don't skimp on the soaking time. Fried chicken deserves perfection.

Serves 6

• 3 to 4 cups buttermilk
• 2 teaspoons Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
• 2 to 3 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• 3½ to 4 pounds chicken parts
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• 3 cups shortening, preferably Crisco
• 3 tablepoons bacon drippings

1. At least 2½ hours (and up to 12 hours) before you plan to eat, mix the buttermilk, Tabasco, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teasoon of the pepper in a shallow dish.
2. Add the chicken parts, turning to coat them well with the mixture ; cover the dish, and refrigerate it.
3. About 20 minutes you plan to fry the chiken, bring it to room temperature.
4. Sprinkle the remaining salt and pepper into a medium-size paper bag, and add the flour ; set the bag aside.
5. In a 10- to 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt the shortening over high heat (never cook the chicken in more than ½ inch of oil) ; add the bacon drippings to the skillet.
6. When small bubbles form on the surface, reduce the heat slightly ; place a large brown paper sack near the stove for draining the chicken.
7. Starting with the dark pieces, take a piece of chicken out of the mariande, shake off the excess liquid and drop it in the bag of seasoned flour ; shake the bag well so that the piece is coated thoroughly.
8. Remove it from the bag, and lower it gently into the skillet, skin-side down ; repeat until all the chicken is in the skillet, arranging it so that all the pieces cook evenly.
9. The pieces should fit snugly together, although they shouldn't stick to each other ; reduce the heat to medium, and cover the skillet.
10. Fry the chicken exactly 17 minutes.
11. Lower the heat slightly, take off the cover, and use tongs to turn over the chicken gently ; fry it uncovered for another 17 minutes.
12. Remove the chicken with the tongs (it will be a deep, rich brown) and lay it on the paper sack to drain.
13. Serve the chicken with Prime Time Mashed Potatoes (click here for the recipe) and Classic Cream Gravy (recipe below) made with the pan drippings.

Do not reheat fried chicken, any leftovers are better cold.

Classic Cream Gravy

• ¼ cup pan drippings
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups evaporated milk
• 1 cup unsalted beef stock
• ½ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• Salt to taste

1. After cooking the fried chicken, pour off the top fat through a strainer, leaving about ¼ cup of the pan drippings in the bottom of the skillet ; return any browned cracklings from the strainer to the skillet before starting the gravy.
2. Place the skillet over medium heat.
3. Sprinkle the flour, stirring to avoid lumps ; ad the evaporated milk and stock.
4. Simmer until the liquid is thickened and the raw flour taste is gone, about 3 minutes ; stir the gravy up from the bottom frequently, scrapping up any browned bits.
5. Add the pepper and the salt to taste ; the gravy should have a strong peppery flavor, add more pepper if it is needed.

BON APPÉTIT

Fajitas Borrachas (Texans marinate fajitas)

 

Serves 8 generously

• 2 skirt steaks, 1 to 1¼ pound each, trimmed of membrane and fat
• 16 to 20 7-inch flour tortillas, heated (click here for recipe)
• Marinated onions
• Pico de Gallo, click here for recipe
• Guacamole, click here for recipe

Marinade

• 1 cup red wine vinegar
• ½ cup Tequila
• ¼ cup oil, canola or corn
• Juice of 3 limes
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• 3 fresh jalapinos, minced
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 2 teaspoons fresh-ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• Salt to taste

1. Cut the steaks across the grain diagonally into finger-length strips ; place the meat in a shallow nonreactive dish.
2. Combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl, mix them well, and pour them over the meat ; refrigerate the meat, covered, between 8 to 24 hours.
3. Place a cast-iron or other heavy skillet on the stove over high heat ; drain the meat strips, and fry them, in batches if necessary, for 1 to 2 minutes.
4. To serve, pile a platter high with the meat, and accompany the meat platter with the tortillas, onion, Pico de Gallo, and guacamole.
5. Let all assembled help themselves by filling flour tortillas with some of the meat and portions of the garnishes.

BON APPÉTIT