Pan-Bagnat

 

                The pan-bagnat is the traditional Nice sandwich, which can be enjoyed on the way back from the beach. It's kind of like a Salad Niçoise on bread. This sandwich is complete, fresh and delicious. You can also enjoy it as an aperitif accompanied by a glass of Rosé de Provence.

For 1 serving

• 1 bagnat bread
• 1 clove of garlic
• 30 ml olive oil
• 1 hard-boiled egg, cut into thin rounds
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• 1 large tomato, thinly sliced
• ½ green bell pepper, thinly sliced
• 1 small can of tuna
• 3 anchovies in oil
• 5 black olives, pitted and sliced
• 15 ml fresh basil, chopped
• Salt and pepper

1. Cut bread in half; rub the inside of the 2 slices of bread with the garlic clove then brush the slices of bread generously with olive oil, salt and pepper.
2. Place the tomato, pepper, onion, tuna, anchovies, egg, black olives and basil on the bottom slice of bread.
3. Season and close the pan-bagnat with the other half of the bread.
4. Leave to cool in the fridge for 1 hour before serving.

BON APPÉTIT

Pan-Bagnat

 

                Le pan-bagnat est le sandwich traditionnelle niçois, que l'on peut déguster en revenant de la plage. C'est en quelque sorte une salade niçoise dans du pain. Ce sandwich est complet, frais et délicieux. Vous pouvez aussi le déguster en apéritif accompagné d'un verre de Rosé de Provence.

Pour 1 portion

• 1 pain-bagnat
• 1 gousse d'ail
• 30 ml huile d'olive
• 1 oeuf dur, coupé en fines rondelles
• 1 oignon, finement tranché
• 1 grosse tomate, finement tranchée
• ½ poivron vert, en fines lanières
• 1 petite boîte de thon
• 3 anchois à l'huile
• 5 olives noires, dénoyautées et tranchées
• 15 ml basilic frais, ciselé
• Sel et poivre

1. Couper le pain en deux ; frotter l'intérieur des 2 tranches de pain avec la gousse d'ail puis badigeonner les tranches de pain généreusement d'huile d'olive, saler et poivrer.
2. Déposer la tomate, le poivron, l'oignon, le thon, les anchois, l'oeuf, les olives noires et le basilic sur la tranche de pain du dessous.
3. Assaisonner et refermer le pan-bagnat avec l'autre moitié de pain.
4. Laisser reposer au frais pendant 1 heure avant de le déguster.

BON APPÉTIT

Mussels and Fries

 

                Here is the recipe for mussels marinières, but you can vary the dish by adding, according to your tastes and desires, fresh cream, Roquefort cheese, pieces of spicy chorizo or curry. For a change, you can also replace the potato fries with sweet potato fries.

For 3 servings

For the mussels

• 3 kg bouchot mussels
• 4 shallots, chopped
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 bunch parsley, chopped
• 100 g butter
• 1 bouquet garni (Thyme, bay leaf and parsley stems)
• 500 ml white wine

For the fries

• 1 kg potatoes, peeled and cut into fries
• Frying oil
• 15 ml parsley, finely chopped
• Salt

1. Scrape the mussels and wash them under cold water.
2. Melt the butter in a large casserole dish; sweat the shallots, onions, garlic and parsley for a few minutes.
3. Add the bouquet garni and moisten with the white wine; pour the mussels into the casserole, mix well, cover and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes until the mussels are fully open.
4. For the fries, heat the oil in the fryer then submerge the fries for about 10 minutes, until they are golden brown; Drain on paper towels.
5. Put the fries in a dish, add the parsley, salt and enjoy with the mussels.

BON APPÉTIT

Moules-Frites

 

                Voici la recette des moules marinières, mais vous pouvez varier le plat en ajoutant, selon vos goûts et envies, de la crème fraîche, du roquefort, des morceaux de chorizo piquant ou du curry. Pour changer, vous pouvez aussi remplacer les frites de pomme de terre par des frites de patate douce.

Pour 3 portions

Pour les moules

• 3 kg moules de bouchot
• 4 échalotes sèches, hachées
• 2 oignons, hachés
• 2 gousses d'ail, hachées
• 1 bouquet de persil, haché
• 100 gr beurre
• 1 bouquet garni (Thym, feuille de laurier et queues de persil)
• 500 ml vin blanc

Pour les frites

• 1 kg pommes de terre, pelées et coupées en frites
• Huile de friture
• 15 ml persil, haché finement
• Sel

1. Gratter les moules et les laver sous l'eau froide.
2. Faire fondre le beurre dans une grande cocotte ; faire suer les échalotes, les oignons, l'ail et le persil pendant quelques minutes.
3. Ajouter le bouquet garni et mouiller avec le vin blanc ; verser les moules dans la cocotte, bien mélanger, couvrir et laisser mijoter 5 à 10 minutes jusqu'à ce que les moules soient bien ouvertes.
4. Pour les frites, chauffer l'huile dans la friteuse puis plonger les frites pendant environ 10 minutes, jusqu'à ce qu'elles soient bien dorées ; les égoutter sur du papier absorbant.
5. Mettre les frites dans un plat, ajouter le persil, saler et déguster avec les moules.

BON APPTIT

Croque-Monsieur

 

                Vous pouvez réaliser un croque-madame, en ajoutant sur le croque-monsieur un oeuf au plat. Vous pouvez aussi tartiner les croques de pesto de tomate ou de basilic, remplacer le jambon à l'os par du jambon fumé et le gruyère par du mozzarella.

Pour 2 portions

• 4 tranches de pain de mie
• 2 tranches de jambon à l'os
• 2 tranches de fromage gruyère
• 15 ml beurre

1. Préchauffer le four à 400F (200C).
2. Prendre 2 tranches de pain de mie et disposer sur chacune d'entre elles 1 tranche de jambon ; ajouter ensuite 1 tranche de fromage.
3. Refermer ensuite les croque-monsieur avec les tranches de pain de mie restantes.
4. Beurrer la partie extérieure des tranches de pain de mie et disposer les croque-monsieur sur une plaque allant au four.
5. Cuire au four pendant 10 minutes ou utiliser une machine à croque-monsieur et faire cuire 4 minutes.
6. Déguster les croque-monsieur chauds accompagnés d'une salade verte.

BON APPÉTIT

Buckwheat Pancakes with Ham and Egg

 

                Accompanied by a good raw farm cider and a green salad, the buckwheat pancake is a real Breton dinner, have fun folding the pancake into a half-moon, a square, a triangle, etc.

For 4 servings

For the pancake batter

• 330 gr buckwheat flour (buckwheat flour)
• 10 g salt
• 750 ml cold water
• 1 egg

For garnish

• 4 slices of ham
• 4 eggs
• Pepper

1. For the pancake batter, pour the buckwheat flour and salt into a bowl and mix.
2. Make a well in this mixture and pour cold water into it; mix vigorously with a whisk.
3. Add the egg and mix again; the batter should be smooth and thick.
4. Let this dough rest in the fridge for 2 hours.
5. Heat a large skillet or griddle and place 1 ladleful of batter in it; spread the batter in the pan and cook the pancake for 2 minutes.
6. Flip the pancake, add 1 slice of ham and break an egg into it; cook for a few more minutes, season with pepper, fold the pancake and serve.
7. Do the same with the other 3 pancakes.

BON APPÉTIT

Crêpes de Sarrasin au Jambon et à l'Oeuf

 

                Accompagnée d'un bon cidre brut fermier et d'une salade verte, la galette de blé noir est un vrai dîner breton, amusez-vous à plier la crêpe en demi-lune, en carré, en triangle, etc.

Pour 4 portions

Pour la pâte crêpes

• 330 gr farine de blé noir (farine de sarrasin)
• 10 gr sel
• 750 ml eau froide
• 1 oeuf

Pour la garniture

• 4 tranches de jambon
• 4 oeufs
• Poivre

1. Pour la pâte à crêpes, verser la farine de blé noir et le sel dans un saladier et mélanger.
2. Faire un puit dans ce mélange et y verser l'eau froide ; mélanger vigoureusement à l'aide d'un fouet.
3. Ajouter l'oeuf et mélanger à nouveau ; la pâte doit être lisse et épaisse.
4. Laisser reposer cette pâte au frais pendant 2 heures.
5. Chauffer une grande poêle ou une crêpière et y déposer 1 louche de pâte ; étaler la pâte dans la poêle et faire cuire la crêpe 2 minutes.
6. Retourner la crêpe, ajouter 1 tranche de jambon et y casser un oeuf ; laisser cuire encore quelques minutes, poivrer, plier la crêpe et servir.
7. Faire de même avec les 3 autres crêpes.

BON APPÉTIT

Tarte Tatin (Upside down apple tart)

 

                This recipe sometimes appears in French cookbooks as Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin. The recipe was developed by two sisters who ran the Tatin Hôtel in Lamothe-Beuvron in central France at the start of the 20th century. The dessert wa originally cooked in a covered pan over hot coals which caramelized the sugar and butter in the base and gave the apple slices a golden glow when the tart was turned over for serving.

                In Parisian pâtisseries, the tarts are often very dark indeed, with blackened edges on the apple slices. If you prefer this darker caramel effect, place the finished tart under a hot broiler for a minute or two until the desired color is achieved, but watch carefully! Some cooks like to soften the apple slices in the melted butter before placing them in the base of the pie plate.

Serves 8

Pastry

• 250 gr (1¾ cups) all-purpose flour
• 15 ml sugar
• 155 gr (two-third cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 medium egg
• 15 ml chilled water

1. Sift the flour onto a pastry board, make a well in the center and place sugar, butter and egg in the well ; mix together to make a paste, gradually adding the flour from the edge and using only fingertips to mix the dough.
2. Only add the water if the dough is dry and stiff ; shape into a ball, wrap in platic wrap and place in the refrigerator for about 1 hour, or until the pastry is firm.

Filling

• 90 gr (one-third cup) butter
• 90 gr (one-third cup) sugar
• 1.5 kg (3 lb) Golden Delicious apple, peeld, cored and sliced

1. Preheat the oven at 400F (200C).
2. Butter a 10-in (25 cm) tart pan with 15 ml butter and sprinkle 15 ml sugar over it.
3. Arrange a layer of apple slices in the base of the pan ; make a second layer on top, then add the remaining slices to fill any gaps.
4. Dot the remaining butter over the apples, then sprinke on the rest of the sugar.
5. Roll the dough thinly and cut a circle to fit inside the tin ; pick gently with a fork and carefully lay it over the apples.
6. Bake for 30 minutes in the oven ; remove from the oven, place a serving plate over the top of the tart and invert.
7. The tart should drop out onto the plate, with the apple side up ; serve with cream.

                Choose an aged Sauternes, preferably one that is deep golden in color and thus deeper and more interesting in flavor.

BON APPÉTIT

Boeuf en daube (Braised beef)

 

                The recipe for this dish varies from region to region. In a popular version from the Pyrenees in southwest France, the meat is diced after being marinated, while in other parts, it is cooked in one piece until it is almost falling apart. Here the meat is cut into thick portions before cooking. In past years, a daube was cooked in a heavy pot called a "daubière" that was burried in hot coals. The olives in the recipe that follows reveal its Provençal origins.

                The pig's feet (trotters) are optional, but they have a gelatinous quality that gives the sauce a beautiful texture.

Serves 8

• 1.5 kg (3 lb) piece good-quality lean beef
• 2 carrots, sliced
• 2 onions, sliced
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1 bouquet garni
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 ml black peppercorns
• 375 ml red wine
• 45 ml olive oil
• 15 ml brandy
• 4 thick bacon slices (rashers), rind removed
• 2 pig's feet (trotters), optional
• Beef stock, if required
• 16 black olives

1. Cut any fat from the meat and trim into e neat shape.
2. Combine the vegetables, bouquet garni, garlic, peppercorns, wine, oil and brandy in a large bowl, then add the meat ; cover and marinate for at least 8 hours, turning the meat occasionally.
3. When ready, cut the meat into 2 or 3 thick slices ; place 2 of the bacon slices on the base of a lightly oiled heavy saucepan ; place the meat on top, arrange the vegetables around the sides, then pour on the liquid from the marinade.
4. Add the remaining 2 slices of bacon, cut into pieces, and add the pig's feet if using.
5. Cover the saucepan and cook over the lowest possible heat for at least 3 hours ; the meat should be meltingly tender.
6. Occasionally check to ensure the liquid is not evaporating ; if it is, add a little hot beef stock.
7. Remove the pig's feet and discard ; skim as much fat as possible from the surface of the liquid.
8. Remove the meat and vegetables and keep warm.
9. Add the olives and reduce the liquid by about one-third over medium heat ; cut the meat into serving portions and spoon over some of the sauce and a few olives.
10. Serve with noodles and beans.

Choose Bandol, made from the Mourvèdre grape and probably the best red of Provence. The more commonly seen Côtes-du-Rhône is an alternative.

BON APPÉTIT

Navarin printanier (Lamb stew)

 

                A navarin is a stew in which mutton (nowadays lamb), potatoes and turnip are the principal ingredients. This recipe also includes the young vegetables of spring ; this is also reflected in its name. Breast or shoulder of lamb or mutton was used in the original dish, but modern cooks prefer to use a well-trimmed leg of lamb.

                Traditionally the vegetables are turned into the oval shape we see in the classic French dishes, but these days the demands of time and convenience dictate that it is more practical to dice the vegetables or to cut them into thick matchsticks.

Serves 8

• 30 ml vegetable oil
• 1 kg (2 lb) leg of lamb, trimmed of fat and cut into large cubes
• 500 ml lamb or chicken stock
• 30 ml tomato paste
• 6 small new potatoes, peeled and turned, cut into thick matchsticks or diced
• 6 small carrots, prepared as above
• 16 small pickling onions
• 3 small white turnips, prepared as above
• Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
• 250 ml green beans, cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces
• 250 ml green peas
• 125 ml finely chopped parsley

1. Heat the oil in a heavy pan, then brown the meat on all sides ; transfer it to a large heavy-based saucepan.
2. Pour off the fat in the pan and discard, then add the stock, stirring in tomato paste ; heat to boiling, then add to the saucepan with the meat.
3. Cover and simmer gently at constant heat for about 1 hour ; add the potatoes, carrots, onions, turnips and salt and pepper, cover the pot and simmer for an additional hour.
4. Prepare a saucepan of boiling water, add the beans and peas and remove after 1 minute, then refresh in cold water ; drain and set aside.
5. When the lamb and the root vegetables are cooked, skim off as much fat as possible and gently stir in the beans and peas ; reheat gently until warmed through and serve at once, sprinkled with the finely chopped parsley.

Try a Pomerol or Saint-Émilion.

BON APPÉTIT

Gigot rôti à la Bretonne (Leg of lamb with white haricot beans)

 

                In France the roast leg is the family meal traditionally used for celebrations, and every region has its own version. This recipe comes from Brittany.

                Allow 25 minutes per pound for well-done meat and 15 minutes per pound for rare meat. The lamb, cooked for the time suggested in this recipe, will be slightly pink at the bone. Calvados, the apple brandy which is made in Brittany as well as in Normandy, can be added just before serving.

Serves 6

• 1 leg of lamb, about 2.5 kg (5 lb)
• 2 garlic cloves, slivered
• Sprig of thyme
• Sprig of marjoram
• 4 bay leaves
• 500 gr dried white haricot beans, soaked in cold water overnight
• Bouquet garni
• 4 cloves
• 1 onion
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 30 gr butter
• 6 small onions, sliced
• 30 ml rich chicken stock
• 5 ml sugar
• 30 ml light cream
• 30 ml Calvados, optional

1. Preheat the oven to 400F (200C).
2. Trim the lamb of any excess fat ; make a few slits in the meat and insert the garlic slivers.
3. Place the lamb in a heavy baking dish and arrange the herb sprigs and bay leaves on top ; bake in the oven, allowing 20 minutes per pound, baste occasionally.
4. While the meat is cooking, place the drained and rinsed beans in a large saucepan with the bouquet garni ; press the cloves into the onion and add the onion to the sauce pan.
5. Then add salt and pepper, and enough water to cover the beans.
6. Heat to boiling, thenreduce heat and cover ; simmer gently for about 1¼ hours, or until the beans are tender.
7. Melt the butter in a heavy pan and gently fry the sliced onions until soft, but not brown ; add the stock, heat to boiling, then simmer 5 minutes ; remove from heat and add the sugar and the cream.
8. Drain the beans and place on a serving platter, then pour the onion sauce over them ; remove the meat from the oven and add to the platter.
9. To serve the lamb, slice thickly and pour the Calvados over the slices.

Select a red from Bordeaux : the St Estéphe commune has many good exemples of the latter.

BON APPÉTIT

Choucroute garnie (White cabbage with wine)

 

                This robust dish, a combination of cabbage (either fresh or pickled) and smoked meat and sausages, is a prime exemple of the German influence on the cooking of its neighbor, the French region of Alsace. A peasant-style dish with no single recipe, Choucroute garnie à l'Alsacienne, to give it its full title, ushers in the winter, with many towns in Alsace holding choucroute festivals in September and October.

                Many versions of this recipe substitute sauerkraut for the fresh cabbage ; fresh cabbage is used in one of Escoffier's famous recipes.

Serves 8

• 1 whole white green cabbage
• 2 ml salt
• 2 ml ground black pepper
• 500 gr pork belly
• 1 small ham hock, about 500 gr
• 2 legs smoked duck, if available
• 2 onions, each studded with 2 cloves
• Bouquet garni
• 15 ml juniper berries (tied in muslin)
• 1 bottle Riesling
• Chicken stock
• 1 strasbourg sausage or smoked pork or smoked pork and beef sausage

1. Discard the coarse outer leaves and stalk from the cabbage ; place the cabbage in a large saucepan and add salt and pepper.
2. Blanch the pork by cooking it in boiling water for 3 minutes ; drain well and add to the saucepan with the cabbage, ham hock, smoked duck, onions, bouquet garni and juniper berries.
3. Add the wine and sufficient stock to just cover the cabbage ; cover and simmer for 1 hour.
4. Remove the pork and set aside ; continue to simmer for another 1 to 1½ hours, or until the cabbage is very tender. (Pierce with a satay stick to test).
5. Return the pork to the pan ; add sausage and poach until cooked, about 10 minutes.
6. When the sausage is cooked, remove and discard the bouquet garni, onion and juniper berries ; remove the pork, ham hock, duck legs and sausage and slice thinly.
7. Drain the cabbage well, place on a serving plate and cut into wedges ; arrange the meat slices around the cabbage.

In Alsace a spicy Gewurzttraminer would be served.

BON APPÉTIT

Poulet Vallée d'Auge (Chicken from the Auge Valley)

 

                This classic from the Auge Valley in the heart of Normandy appears in cookbooks with many variations. The region of Normandy is famous for its rich dairy products, its bountiful apple harvest and, of course, its famous apple brandy called Calvados.

                For variation, sauté 1 peeled and sliced cooking apple in butter until tender, then add the slices to the pan with the cream sauce and heat through.

Serves 6

• 6-8 chicken pieces
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 60 gr butter
• 185 gr small mushrooms, finely sliced
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 small bay leaf
• 1 sprig thyme
• 45 ml Calvados
• 60 ml heavy cream
• Fresh herbs, for garnish

1. Season the chicken with salt and plenty of pepper ; melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat and when hot, add the chicken and brown on all sides.
2. Add the mushrooms, onion, bay leaf and thyme ; cover the pan and cook for 25 to 30 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.
3. Heat the Calvados in a spirit warmer or small saucepan, set it afire and pour over the chicken ; baste the chicken with the juices in the pan.
4. Remove the chicken pieces from the pan and place in prewarmed serving dish ; keep warm without letting it overcook.
5. Remove the bay leaf and thyme, add the cream to the pan and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes ; adjust seasoning if necessary.
6. Pour the creamy sauce over the chicken pieces, garnish with your choice of fresh herbs and serve at once.

A Riesling will best complement this chicken dish.

BON APPÉTIT

Cassoulet (Dried Bean Casserole)

 

                Goose confit, a very rich preserve of goose that is cooked and stored in goose fat, has long played a role in the households of the Languedoc region of France. The name of this recipe comes from "cassole", the glaze earthenware pot in which the dish is traditionally cooked.

                If it is not possible to obtain duck or goose confit, substitute a roast duck leg and wing and 60 ml of goose fat. The flavor will not be quite the same, but the cassoulet will still be excellent. Goose fat is available in cans from specialty delicatessens.

Serves 6

• 750 gr dried haricot beans
• 250 gr bacon, cut into cubes
• 3 onions, sliced
• 2 large tomatoes, peeled and sliced
• 4 garlic cloves, chopped
• Bouquet garni
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1.25 liters chicken stock
• 1 leg and 1 wing of goose or duck confit
• 500 gr garlic sausage, thickly sliced
• 60 ml goose fat or olive oil
• 60 ml white bread crumbs

1. Soak the beans overnight ; the next day drain and rinse and cover with cold water.
2. Simmer for 2½ hours, adding additional hot water as necessary.
3. Cook the bacon in a heavy pot until the fat runs, then add the onions, tomatoes, garlic, bouquet garni and salt and pepper ; pour the stock into the pot and simmer for 30 minutes, strain the stock.
4. Preheat the oven to 300F (150C).
5. Rub the base of aheavy casserole with a cut piece of garlic ; place the goose confit and the sausage in the dish with the goose fat.
6. Pile the drain beans on top and pour in the stock ; heat slowly to boiling, lower heat and spread the bread crumbs evenly on the surface.
7. Bake for 1 hour.
8. Serve at the table directly from the casserole ; Cassoulet needs only a salad and red wine as accompaniments.

Try a wine from the Midi : Fitou, made from Grenache and Carignan, is very good, as are some of the Côtes-du-Roussillon Rouge.

BON APPÉTIT

Coq au vin (Chicken in red wine)

 

                Throughout France, you will find a version of this dish. It was originally devised to cook the farmyard cock that had outlived its usefulness. Being old and tough, the bird would have required marinating and slow braising.

                If prefered, you can sauté the mushrooms in a little butter, then add to the pot for only the last 5 minutes (instead of 10) of cooking.

Serves 6

• 1 roasting chicken, about 1.5 kg (3 lb)
• 45 ml olive oil, or equal quantities of mixed butter and oil
• 125 gr bacon, diced
• 12 small peeled French shallots or baby white onions
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, sliced
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 15 ml brandy
• 30 ml all-purpose flour
• 15 ml chopped fresh marjoram or 2 ml dried marjoram
• 2 ml fresh thyme or dried thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
• 500 ml dry red wine
• 250 gr button mushrooms
• Thyme sprigs, for garnish

1. Cut the chicken into serving portions, removing any excess fat.
2. Heat the oil or combined oil and butter in a heavy saucepan, add the bacon and fry for about 3 minutes ; push to one side of the pan, add French shallots, onion, carrot and garlic and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Remove the vegetables from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
4. Add chicken pieces to the pan and brown well ; heat the brandy gently in a small pan, ignite with a match and pour over the chicken pieces while still alight.
5. Add the flour, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper to the pan and mix in well ; gradually add the red wine, stirring constantly ; return the vegetables to the pan.
6. Cover the saucepan and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour, or until the chicken is tender ; add the mushrooms during the last 10 minutes of cooking.
7. Skim off any excess fat, remove the bay leaf and adjust seasoning.
8. Arrange the chicken pieces on a serving plate, spoon over the sauce and garnish with the thyme.

Choose a lighter style of red Burgundy from the Côte-de-Beaune ; try a Savigny-les-Beaune or Pernand-Vergelesses.

BON APPÉTIT

Bouillabaisse (Fishermen's soup)

 

                The fish can be strained from the soup and served separately, accompanied by the soup in a tureen. The "rouille" (garlic spread) presented here is made using an abbreviated method, but still tasty.

Serves 8

• 2 kg (4 lb) fresh fish, such as red snapper, sea perch, halibut, whitting, John Dory, stargazer (or red gurnard and scorpion fish, if available)
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 15 ml finely chopped fresh fennel
• 2 crumbled bay leaves
• 1 strip orange peel
• 30 ml tomato paste
• 60 ml chopped parsley
• Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 ml saffran threads, soaked in 45 ml hot water
• 1 baguette (French bread stick) 
• 90 ml olive oil
• 1 large white onion, finely chopped
• 3 young leeks, white part only, cut in julienne strips
• 4 ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped
• 375 gr mussels or clams, in shell
• 1 lobster or crayfish, cut into pieces
• 1 crab, cut into pieces
• 1.25 liters hot fish stock, click here for recipe

1. Preheat the oven at 300F (150C).
2. Clean and scale the fish and trim off the fins ; cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces.
3. Mix together the garlic, fennel, bay leaves, orange peel, tomato paste, parsley, salt, pepper and strained liquid from the saffran ; set aside this seasoning mixture.
4. Cut the bread stick into slices and bake for 30 minutes, or until crisp.
5. While the bread is drying in the oven, heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the seasoning mixture and the onion, leeks and tomatoes ; cook until the vegetables become soft.
6. Add the prepared seafood, pour in the hot fish stock and cook over high heat for 15 to 20 minutes ; adjust seasoning.
7. Pour the soup into a warm tureen ; spread the rouille on the warm bread slices and serve with the soup.

Rouille

• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 ml finely chopped red chili or chili powder
• 250 ml mayonnaise
• Ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 ml saffran threads, soaked in 15 ml hot water

1. Crush the garlic in a bowl or mortar, work in the chili or chili powder, then gradually stir in mayonnaise and pepper and the safran liquid.

Choose a good white Burgundy. Meursault is a reliable appellation and is often good value.

BON APPÉTIT

Coquilles Saint-Jacques au Sud (Scallops with garlic butter)

 

                This treatment of scallops with garlic butter comes originally from the south of France. Coquilles Saint-Jacques are often served in their shells. Warm the shells in the oven if you wish to serve them this way. It is a good idea to fasten the shells to the serving plate with a good dab of mashed potato. It makes it much easier for the dinner.

Serves 4

• 24 scallops with coral attached
• 2 ml salt
• 2 ml ground black pepper
• 30-40 ml all-purpose flour
• 30 gr butter
• 45 ml olive oil
• 4 lemon wedges
• 30 ml finely chopped parsley

Garlic butter

• 125 gr butter
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1. Rinse the scallops, then pat dry with paper towels ; season lightly with the salt and pepper.
2. Toss the scallops in the flour ; they need a very light coating.
3. Melt the butter with the oil in a medium pan over medium heat.
4. Sauté the scallops in two batches, shaking the pan and stirring the scallops until they are golden ; remove with a slotted spoon and keep warm on a lightly heated dish.
5. To make the garlic butter, heat the butter in a small saucepan, pour off the clear oil and discard the residue left behind.
6. Heat the clarified butter in a small pan until it sizzles but does not brown ; add the garlic and cook over medium heat for one minute, stirring constantly.
7. Pour over the scallops, sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve with the lemon wedges.

A Chablis of good quality would be delicious and Muscadet-sur-lie is another delightful shellfish wine.

BON APPÉTIT

Quiche Lorraine

 

                This most famous quiche of all is now a classic dish. The recipe comes from Lorraine, the region in northeastern France where pastry cooks have long been noted for their style and inventiveness.

Serves 4

                To ensure that the base of the pastry cooks through, "blind bake" it first. Prick the pastry base well with a fork. Line with wax paper and fill with dried beans. Bake until the crust is lightly colored and the base is partly cooked, about 10 minutes. Remove the lining and beans and set the crust aside to cool before filling.

Shortcrust pastry

• 250 gr all-purpose flour
• 125 gr butter
• Chilled water

Filling

• 125 gr bacon, diced
• 125 gr ham, diced
• 3 eggs
• 1 egg yolk
• 310 ml light cream
• 160 ml milk
• 2 ml salt
• 2 ml ground black pepper
• 1 ml ground nutmeg

1. Rub the butter imto the flour with your fingertips and add sufficient chilled water to bind.
2. Roll out the pastry thinly and transfer to a 9 in (23 cm) pie plate or flan pan.
3. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
4. Fry the bacon lightly for about 5 minutes ; cool for 5 minutes, then spread over the pastry and add the chopped ham.
5. In a bowl, beat together the eggs, extra egg yolk, cream and milk, then add the salt, pepper and nutmeg.
6. Pour the egg and cream mixture over the bacon and ham.
7. Bake the quiche on a low shelf in the oven for about 45 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown.
8. Serve warm or cold.

Select an Alsatian Riesling from Lorraine.

BON APPÉTIT

Oeufs à la tapenade (Eggs with tapenade) (Hors-d'oeuvre)

 

                A puree originating in Provence, tapenade is made from capers, olives and anchovies, and in many cases tuna fish. It is served with raw vegetables, as an hors-d'oeuvre, or as a condiment to accompany meat or fish.

                Serve as a light first course or as part of an hors-d'oeuvre selection. The filling is delicious spread on thin toast triangles.

Serves 6

• 6 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
• 10 black olives, pitted
• 6 anchovy fillets, soaked in a little milk
• 30 ml canned tuna, well drained
• 15 ml capers, rinsed and dried
• 90 ml olive oil
• 10 ml lemon juice
• 10 ml Brandy (optional)
• Ground black pepper, to taste
• Lettuce leaves
• Thyme sprigs, for garnish
• Sliced black olives, for garnish

1. Cut the eggs in half lengthwise ; carefully remove the yolks and set aside.
2. Using a food processor or a mortar and pestle, blend the olives, anchovies, tuna and capers to a coarse paste ; beat in the oil, a little at a time, until the mixture is thick and creamy.
3. Mash the egg yolks and blend in ; Add lemon juice to taste, brandy, if using, and pepper.
4. Spoon the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites.
5. Arrange on a platter lined with the lettuce leaves ; garnish with the thyme and the black olives.

BON APPÉTIT

Soupe au Pistou (Soup with Pesto)

                 This soup from the south of France captures all the flavors of summer in a generous bowl.

Serves 6

• 1 cup mixed dried haricot and red kidney beans
• 2 tablespoons virgin olive oïl
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 5 cups water
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 2 potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 leek, sliced
• 60 gr vermicelli, broken into small lengths
• 1 cup green beans, cut into 1inch (2½ cm) lengths
• 1 zucchini (courgette), sliced
• ½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Pistou

• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• ½ cup basil leaves
• 2-3 tablespoons virgin olive oïl
• 1-2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese

1. Soak the beans overnigth in cold water ; drain the next day, rinse and drain again.
2. Heat the oïl in a large saucepan, add the onions and sauté until softened ; add the tomatoes, cook for a few minutes and add the water, season with salt and Pepper.
3. When the water boils, add the drain beans, potatoes and leek ; simmer for about 20 minutes, then add the pasta, green beans and zucchini and cook until the pasta is tender.
4. While the soup cooks, combine garlic and basil leaves in a mortar and grind together ; add the olive oil a drop at a time, rather like when making mayonnaise. Stir in the parmesan cheese.
5. Stir the pistou into the hot soup, laddle into heated bowls at once, or spoon into warmed tureen.
6. Pass around the extra parmesan cheese separately.

BON APPETIT